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Contents:


  1. The King Of Machine Tools | Hackaday
  2. The King Of Machine Tools
  3. Step 2: Tools & Accessories
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Skew chisels. Parting tools and Beading tools.

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The King Of Machine Tools | Hackaday

Hollowing tools. Thread cutting tools. Bead forming tools.


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Ring cutting tools. Carbide tipped turning tools. High performance turning tools. Miniature turning tools. Coring tools and systems Centre savers. Decorating tools. System handles and components.

The King Of Machine Tools

Sundry woodturning tools. Woodturning tool sets. The faceplate is best used on wood with a flat face to prevent any rocking of the chuck. The bigger the work, the wider the faceplate you need to secure it and prevent it from wobbling. In each case, a hole is drilled into the work to take the screw thread.

Step 2: Tools & Accessories

This chuck is only to be used if the face of the wood is flat - if not the wood may not screw in straight, or be pressed against the faceplate evenly, which may cause it to loosen. The larger the work, the bigger the faceplate section needs to be, to provide proper support.

It is important to ensure that the recess or spigot is of a size and shape to allow the jaws to have as much contact with the wood as possible see diagrams below. The larger the work, the bigger the jaws you need to provide proper support. A scroll chuck can be used to hold both faceplate and spindle work but because of grain alignment, you only ever clamp down on spigots if using the scroll chuck for spindle work. Goblets and one-piece candlesticks are good examples of spindle work that can be made using a scroll chuck.


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The headstock accessories used here are called drive spurs or prong drives. At the other end, the timber needs to be supported, but allowed to turn freely. To that end, revolving centres are fitted in the tailstock. These support the wood but run on bearings to revolve freely.

Both the drive spur and the tailstock need to be located as close to the centre of your work as possible. It is vital that the drive spur bites far enough into the wood and that the revolving centre is secure, too. To fix the timber, present the work to the drive spur so the drive's and the work's centre line up, then push the tailstock along the lathe bed so that the revolving centre just touches the centre of the work.

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Lock the tailstock, then use the hand wheel to wind the centre into the workpiece to provide a bit of pressure and then lock it off. Don't apply too much pressure from the tailstock or you can cause the spindle to bend.

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